From the kitchen
How we cook, what we think about food, and why it matters.
A whole cauliflower roasted at high heat until the outside is deeply caramelised and the inside completely tender, served on a pool of spiced...
Christmas dinner produces more kitchen anxiety than almost any other meal. Most of it is unnecessary. A clearer understanding of what can be done...
Duck legs rendered slowly on the hob until the fat runs clear, then braised in a fragrant liquid of orange, star anise, and dark...
The end of the year is a reasonable moment to look at the cooking that defined it. Not the recipes, but the ideas —...
A whole lamb shoulder slow-roasted with warm spices until completely tender and pulling from the bone, served over a base of spiced chickpeas with...
Fat is flavour carrier, texture builder, and the thing that makes the difference between a dish that tastes fully realised and one that tastes...
Diced beef braised long and slow in stout with a large quantity of mushrooms until the sauce turns deeply dark and the meat collapses...
November is the month when cooking for other people stops being a performance and becomes something more straightforward. There's a warmth logic to this...
Carrots, parsnips, and beetroot roasted at high heat until caramelised and tender, served over dressed Puy lentils with crumbled feta and a herb vinaigrette....
Most home kitchens have too many knives and none of them particularly good. The opposite approach — one excellent knife, kept sharp — is...
Pork shoulder browned hard and then braised low and slow in cider with apple, onion, and whole-grain mustard until the meat falls apart and...
There is a moment in October when braising stops feeling like a choice and starts feeling like the obvious thing. The cut of meat,...
Chicken thighs browned deeply and then braised in white wine and stock with tarragon until the sauce reduces to something silky and concentrated. A...
Tinned pulses are genuinely useful but dried pulses, cooked well, are a different ingredient. The gap between a correctly cooked dried chickpea and a...
A thick, deeply savoury soup that sits between smooth and textured — red lentils dissolve into the squash to create body, with warm spices...
September arrives and the kitchen starts to shift. The change isn't dramatic. It's a series of small moves — a different oil here, a...
Aubergine halves roasted at high heat until completely collapsed and deeply caramelised, glazed with a miso and sesame dressing in the final minutes. Served...
By mid-August the garden and the market are producing faster than it's possible to cook them. The courgettes are enormous, the tomatoes are arriving...
A late-summer salad built around the best tomatoes of the year — mixed varieties if possible — over warm dressed farro with capers, basil,...
The difference between a salad that functions as a side and one that functions as a meal is not portion size. It's structure. Three...
Chicken legs poached gently in seasoned stock until silky and just cooked through, served cold with a sharp green sauce built on tarragon, parsley,...
Most food culture treats cold as the default failure state — something to fix, to warm back up, to apologise for. There is another...
Courgettes grilled until properly charred and tender, served over creamy white beans dressed with lemon and garlic, finished with basil torn at the table....
Eating outdoors doesn't require a garden or a terrace or even particularly good weather. It requires only a decision to do it, and an...
Salmon roasted slowly at low heat — silky, barely set, deep pink through the centre — served cold with cucumber yoghurt and a bright...
The braise reduction that defined winter cooking doesn't belong in June. Something else takes over — lighter, colder, sharper. The logic of saucing shifts...
A pale green risotto made with the best of early summer — podded broad beans, fresh peas, and a generous finish of cold butter,...
Something shifts in how we cook at the start of June. The herbs come in from outside, quantities become more generous, and the approach...
Chicken thighs rubbed generously with za'atar and olive oil and roasted until the skin is golden and fragrant, served with warm flatbread, a sharp...
Leeks halved and charred hard on a griddle until blackened at the edges and silky through the middle, served over warm pearl barley dressed...
A laksa that earns the name — built from a proper spice paste, with good prawns and rice noodles in a coconut broth that's...
The prep is done. The pastes are made. The equipment is ready. Thursday is when the actual cooking starts — and it's the day...
Every season has a dish that sets the tone. For summer 2026, it's a za'atar-roasted chicken eaten at room temperature with yoghurt, flatbread and...
A plant-based Bolognese that doesn't apologise for what it is. Deeply savoury from a mix of dried and fresh mushrooms, with walnuts for texture...
Collected Friday evening, still excellent Tuesday night. Here's exactly how to store each type of dish and why the differences matter.
A sauce made from a jar is a different product from one made fresh. Not morally — practically. The difference shows in the finished...
White fish baked in a bold Sicilian-style sauce of olives, capers, tomatoes and a little anchovy. One of those dishes that looks and tastes...
There's a reason the best restaurant kitchens work in large quantities. Batch cooking isn't a compromise — it's a technique.
Roasted cauliflower, chickpeas and sweet potato over turmeric-spiced freekeh with a tahini-lemon drizzle. Nourishing without being worthy about it.
Dhal is the kind of dish that looks simple and is, in certain ways. But getting it from decent to genuinely excellent involves a...
Bone-in chicken thighs marinated in rose harissa and roasted over a tray of root vegetables. Everything cooks together in one pan and the result...
We change the menu every week partly because we like variety. But it's also because the best ingredient available on any given week in...
A slow-cooked dhal with roasted butternut squash folded through at the end. Rich, deeply spiced, and genuinely comforting — the kind of thing you...
Fish has an unfair reputation for being difficult. In our experience, the opposite is usually true — it's one of the most forgiving proteins...
Salmon roasted at a low temperature until just set, over a warm puy lentil base with a sharp, herb-heavy salsa verde. Simple, considered, properly...
A grain bowl isn't a salad with ambition issues. It's a structured thing with a logic to it — and once you understand the...
Made properly, from a paste you build yourself, with good coconut milk and chicken that's actually cooked with care. Worlds away from a jar....
Salt is not an ingredient you add at the end. It's something you build with, in layers, throughout the entire cooking process. Here's how...
Lamb kofta spiced with cumin, coriander and a little cinnamon, served over herbed bulgur with a sharp yoghurt sauce and pickled red onion. Weeknight...
White rice has its place. But when we're building meals designed to sustain you properly through an evening, we reach for something with more...
Aubergines roasted until silky and caramelised under a sweet miso glaze, served over nutty black sesame rice. A vegetarian main that doesn't feel like...
Reheating is cooking. Done badly, it destroys everything you built in the original dish. Done well, it finishes the job.
A proper long-cooked ragu — chicken thighs broken down into a deep tomato and red wine sauce, served over wide ribbons of pappardelle. This...
Earthy, sharp, sweet and rich in the same bowl. Roasted beetroot and warm Puy lentils dressed with a mustardy vinaigrette, with crumbled goat's cheese...
The cooking at the end of December isn't Christmas cooking — that's a different thing entirely. It's the quiet cooking of the days that...
Featherblade of beef braised for four hours in red wine and stock until it collapses into glossy shreds, served alongside horseradish cream and a...
2025 in the kitchen: what changed, what we got wrong, what we'll keep doing. Some of it was technique. Some of it was how...
Paneer grilled until charred at the edges, then simmered in a spiced tomato and cream sauce that's properly built — toasted whole spices, bloomed...
The question isn't whether food should be spiced. It's what kind of spice, at what intensity, in what context. Getting this right is what...
Duck legs browned until the skin is properly rendered, then braised slowly with Puy lentils, shallots and thyme until the lentils have absorbed the...
There are dishes that are technically correct in November, and there are dishes that feel necessary. The second category is smaller, but it's the...
All the technique of a risotto, made with pearl barley instead of rice. The barley holds its texture better, takes on flavour generously, and...
Stock is what separates a good braise from an excellent one, a good risotto from a memorable one. It's not complicated to make. It...
Beef cheek braised low and slow in red wine until it collapses under a spoon, served over a silky celeriac and potato mash lifted...
Butternut squash and crown prince pumpkin are both orange, both autumnal, and both excellent — but they respond to heat completely differently. Getting this...
Chicken thighs browned until the skin is deeply golden, then braised slowly with porcini, fresh mushrooms, shallots and Marsala until the sauce is reduced,...
Celeriac, parsnip, swede, turnip — the root vegetables that most people boil into submission once a year and forget about for the rest. Treated...
Black rice has a slightly nutty flavour and a colour that makes everything around it look more considered. Paired with cumin-roasted butternut squash, a...
There's a week, usually somewhere in early September, where both things are true at once: the last of the summer tomatoes and the first...
Mackerel fillets on a screaming-hot griddle until the skin blisters and crisps, served with a sharp, caper-heavy salsa verde that cuts straight through the...
The most useful cooking habit for August: making things that are genuinely good across a range of temperatures. Eat them warm tonight, cold for...
Tomatoes roasted slowly until they collapse and concentrate, then eggs cracked straight into the pan and baked until the whites just set and the...
Good tomatoes are available for about six weeks. Outside that window, what's in the shops is a different ingredient entirely — worth knowing the...
Soba noodles cooked, rinsed cold and dressed in a sharp sesame and ginger dressing. This takes twenty minutes, keeps well, and is exactly the...
Recipe timings are almost always optimistic. Here's what ours actually mean, what they don't include, and the handful of things that genuinely do go...
Proper tabbouleh is mostly herbs — the grain is the background, not the main event. This version adds griddled courgette for depth and char,...
This isn't a case against meat. It's a case for the courgettes and tomatoes and corn that are genuinely good in July and don't...
Aubergine roasted at high heat until the cut face is deeply caramelised and the flesh has collapsed into something silky. Tahini sauce pooled into...
The grill is the summer cooking tool most people don't have. Most of the best summer food doesn't need it — it needs cold...
Chicken poached gently in aromatic stock until just cooked, served at room temperature over warm cannellini beans and blanketed in a sharp, herb-heavy salsa...
Summer cooking doesn't need a long shopping list. It needs five or six things used well — olive oil, lemons, soft herbs, capers, anchovies,...
Salmon fillets glazed in soy, mirin and ginger and cooked until the skin is crisp and the glaze is caramelised at the edges. The...
Some of the best things you can do to a dish happen after the cooking is finished. Cold sauces, raw herb finishes, quick pickles...
Griddled asparagus with char marks and a little resistance, laid over cold burrata that begins to melt at the edges. The hazelnut dressing ties...
Asparagus has a six-week window in which it's worth cooking. During that window, it needs high heat, very little time, and to be left...
Ricotta gnocchi is lighter and more forgiving than the potato version. The dough comes together in ten minutes, the gnocchi take two minutes to...
The difference between a dish with fresh herbs and the same dish without them isn't subtle. It's the difference between food that tastes finished...
A whole shoulder roasted at low heat for four hours until it gives up the bone entirely. The pomegranate glaze goes on in the...
Spring lamb is a different ingredient from the lamb you buy in October. The season is short and the case for eating it now,...
Short ribs braised low and slow in a miso and sake liquor until falling from the bone. The pickled cucumber isn't optional — it's...
Spring doesn't arrive all at once. It arrives in the produce. Purple sprouting broccoli first, then spring onions, then new-season garlic. The kitchen notices...
Freekeh has a smokiness and chew that no other grain quite matches. With sweet roasted beetroot, sharp labneh and the crunch of toasted walnuts,...
A good sauce isn't a finishing touch — it's the structural centre of a plate. Four things determine whether it works: fat, acid, depth...
Bone-in chicken legs roasted over a pan of tomatoes, olives and capers until the skin is crisp and the sauce underneath has reduced to...
Miso doesn't make things taste of miso. Used well, it makes everything else taste more like itself — and that's a far more useful...
A proper, smoky, deeply flavoured chilli that happens to be vegan. The dark chocolate goes in at the end — not enough to taste...
Braising is one of the most forgiving techniques in cooking. Once you understand why it works, you stop worrying about time and start trusting...
Pork belly started at high heat for crackling, then dropped low and slow for three hours. The fennel melts into the cooking juices. The...
Not a shopping list. More like a set of convictions — the things that live in our kitchen and make everything else possible.
A proper winter one-pot. White beans go almost creamy when some are crushed against the side of the pan, and cavolo nero holds its...
January has a reputation it doesn't deserve. The month that gave us braising, long soups and the satisfaction of a slow oven deserves better...
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