Recipe
Griddled Asparagus & Burrata with Hazelnut Dressing
Griddled asparagus with char marks and a little resistance, laid over cold burrata that begins to melt at the edges. The hazelnut dressing ties everything together. This is a May dish and it only really works in May.
Method
Toast the hazelnuts in a dry frying pan over medium heat for 5–6 minutes, tossing frequently until golden brown and fragrant. The skins may begin to crack and loosen — this is fine. Tip onto a chopping board, leave for 2 minutes to cool slightly, then roughly chop. Aim for a mix of textures: some finely chopped, some left in larger pieces.
Make the dressing: in a small bowl, whisk together the sherry vinegar, Dijon mustard, sugar and a pinch of salt until the sugar dissolves. Whisking constantly, pour in the olive oil in a slow, steady stream to emulsify. Stir in two-thirds of the chopped hazelnuts. Taste — it should be properly sharp and nutty. Adjust with more vinegar or salt as needed.
Take the burrata out of the fridge 20 minutes before serving. Cold burrata tastes of very little and has a dense texture — at room temperature the cream inside softens and the flavour opens up.
Heat a griddle pan or heavy cast iron frying pan over the highest heat possible for at least 3 minutes — it should be almost smoking. Toss the asparagus spears with the olive oil and a good pinch of salt. Lay them in a single layer in the pan — don't crowd, work in batches if needed. Leave completely undisturbed for 2 minutes. Turn once and cook for a further 1–2 minutes. The spears should have definite char marks and retain a slight resistance when pressed. Remove immediately.
To serve: place the burrata on a wide plate or board and tear each ball gently — the cream inside should spill out and pool slightly. Arrange the hot asparagus over and around the burrata. Spoon the hazelnut dressing generously over everything. Scatter the remaining chopped hazelnuts, the tarragon leaves and the lemon zest across the plate. Finish with sea salt flakes and a generous crack of black pepper. Eat immediately.
✦ Chef's note
The contrast between the hot asparagus and cold burrata is the point of this dish — don't let the asparagus cool before assembling. If you can't find sherry vinegar, a good quality red wine vinegar works well; avoid balsamic, which is too sweet and heavy here. Hazelnut oil, if you have it, can replace 1–2 tablespoons of the olive oil in the dressing for extra nuttiness. This works as a starter for four or a substantial lunch for two with good bread alongside.