Recipe
Spring Pea & Ricotta Gnocchi with Brown Butter & Lemon
Ricotta gnocchi is lighter and more forgiving than the potato version. The dough comes together in ten minutes, the gnocchi take two minutes to cook, and the brown butter sauce takes three. This is an achievable weeknight project.
Method
If the ricotta looks very wet or watery, drain it in a fine-mesh sieve for 20 minutes first — excess moisture makes the dough sticky and forces you to add more flour, which makes heavier gnocchi. Beat the drained ricotta in a bowl with the egg, finely grated parmesan, salt and nutmeg until completely smooth.
Add 100g of flour and fold through gently with a spatula — don't beat or knead. The dough should just hold together: soft, slightly tacky, but not wet. If it's sticking to your hands and can't be shaped, add the remaining 20g flour. Stop there. The less flour you use, the lighter the result.
Tip the dough onto a lightly floured surface and bring together briefly — don't overwork it. Wrap in cling film and refrigerate for 30 minutes. The rest firms the dough slightly and relaxes the gluten, making it easier to roll and the gnocchi lighter when cooked.
Divide the rested dough into 4 equal pieces. On a well-floured surface, roll each piece into a rope about 1.5cm in diameter — use a light touch and let the weight of your hands do the work rather than pressing hard. Cut each rope into 2cm pieces with a sharp knife or pastry scraper. Transfer to a floured tray as you go and don't let them touch.
Bring a large pan of generously salted water to a rolling boil. Drop in the peas and cook for 1 minute — just until bright green and warmed through. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside. Keep the water at a boil for the gnocchi.
Make the brown butter. Melt the butter in a wide frying pan over medium heat and let it continue to cook, swirling the pan gently every 30 seconds. It will foam, then the foam will subside, and then the milk solids will begin to turn golden — at this point it will smell distinctly nutty and toasty. Remove from the heat immediately at a pale amber colour. Left on the heat any longer it will burn.
Cook the gnocchi in batches — don't overcrowd the pan. Drop them into the boiling water and watch. They will sink to the bottom, then rise to the surface. Cook for exactly 30 seconds after they float, then lift out with a slotted spoon directly into the brown butter pan. Repeat with the remaining gnocchi.
Return the butter pan to the lowest heat. Add the peas, lemon zest and lemon juice and toss gently to coat everything in the butter. Season well with salt and black pepper. Divide between warm bowls immediately. Top with torn fresh mint, extra finely grated parmesan and a generous crack of black pepper.
✦ Chef's note
Ricotta gnocchi must be served immediately — they don't hold well and become soft if left sitting in the butter. Have everything ready before the gnocchi go into the water. If you want to get ahead, the uncooked gnocchi can sit on a well-floured tray in the fridge for up to 24 hours before cooking. Fresh peas in pods, when in season, are worth podding for this — the flavour is sweeter and more delicate than frozen. Outside of June and July, good-quality frozen peas are the better choice.