Recipe

Braised Chicken with White Wine & Tarragon

Name: Braised Chicken with White Wine & Tarragon
Yield: 4
Ingredients: 8 bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs; Sea salt and black pepper; 2 tbsp neutral oil; 1 medium onion, finely diced; 3 cloves garlic, finely sliced; 200ml dry white wine; 300ml good chicken stock; 2 bay leaves; 4 sprigs fresh thyme; 2 tbsp crème fraîche or double cream; Large bunch fresh tarragon; 1 tbsp Dijon mustard

Chicken thighs browned deeply and then braised in white wine and stock with tarragon until the sauce reduces to something silky and concentrated. A dish for the first properly cool evening of the season.

Serves 4

Ready in 1 hr 15 min

Keeps 3 days fridge. Improves overnight.

Level Moderate

8 bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs
Sea salt and black pepper
2 tbsp neutral oil
1 medium onion, finely diced
3 cloves garlic, finely sliced
200ml dry white wine
300ml good chicken stock
2 bay leaves
4 sprigs fresh thyme
2 tbsp crème fraîche or double cream
Large bunch fresh tarragon
1 tbsp Dijon mustard

The quality of the braise depends almost entirely on the depth of browning at the start. Chicken skin that is pale gold contributes little; chicken skin that is deep mahogany — approaching the dark edge of what looks safe — contributes flavour, colour, and a rendered fat that becomes the basis of the sauce. The skin must go into a hot, lightly oiled pan skin-side down and be left alone. Moving it too soon prevents browning and causes steaming instead. Press it gently against the pan if it curls. It releases naturally when the browning is sufficient — this takes at least 6–8 minutes on medium-high heat.

Method

Pat the chicken thighs completely dry with kitchen paper on both sides — moisture is the enemy of browning. Season generously with salt and pepper on all surfaces. Heat the oil in a wide, heavy-based casserole or deep frying pan over medium-high heat until shimmering.

Place the chicken thighs skin-side down in the hot pan. Do not move them. If they curl, press gently with a spatula to maintain contact with the pan. Cook for 6–8 minutes until the skin is a deep mahogany brown — far darker than golden. Turn and cook for 3 minutes on the flesh side. Remove to a plate and set aside.

Reduce the heat to medium. Pour off all but about 1 tbsp of the rendered fat from the pan — leave the brown bits on the base. Add the diced onion and a pinch of salt. Cook, stirring and scraping the base, for 6–8 minutes until the onion is soft and any stuck bits have released. Add the garlic and cook for 2 minutes until fragrant.

Pour in the white wine. Increase the heat to high and let it bubble vigorously for 3 minutes, continuing to scrape the base of the pan. The liquid should reduce by roughly half and the sharp alcohol smell should cook off.

Add the chicken stock, bay leaves, thyme sprigs, and half the tarragon (stems and all). Return the browned chicken to the pan, skin-side up — the skin should sit above the liquid level to stay crisp rather than going soft. If the liquid isn't coming at least halfway up the thighs, add a little more stock or water.

Reduce to a gentle, steady simmer. Partially cover with a lid and cook for 35–40 minutes until the chicken is cooked through and beginning to pull away from the bone when lifted with tongs. The skin won't be crisp anymore — that's correct for a braise.

Remove the chicken to a plate. Discard the bay leaves, thyme sprigs and cooked tarragon from the sauce. Increase the heat and bubble the sauce for 5 minutes to reduce and concentrate slightly. Stir in the crème fraîche and Dijon mustard. Pick the leaves from the remaining tarragon sprigs and stir through. Taste and season generously. Return the chicken to the pan, skin-side up.

Serve directly from the pan at the table with mashed potato, buttered egg noodles, or plenty of crusty bread. The sauce is the point — make sure there's enough bread or potato to account for it.

✦ Chef's note

This dish improves significantly overnight — the sauce deepens and the chicken absorbs more flavour. If making ahead, reheat gently with a splash of stock or water to loosen the sauce and stir through the fresh tarragon at the last minute. Bone-in thighs are strongly preferred over boneless — the bone contributes flavour to the sauce during the long braise. If making with boneless thighs, reduce the braising time to 20–25 minutes and check for doneness earlier. A few sliced mushrooms added with the onion make an excellent addition, particularly chestnut mushrooms — they contribute earthiness that works very well with the tarragon and wine.