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Recipe

Mushroom and Walnut Bolognese with Rigatoni

A plant-based Bolognese that doesn't apologise for what it is. Deeply savoury from a mix of dried and fresh mushrooms, with walnuts for texture and body. It behaves like the real thing.

Serves 4
Ready in 1 hr 10 min
Keeps 5 days fridge / 3 months frozen

Method

Soak the dried porcini in 200ml of just-boiled water for 20 minutes. Lift out the mushrooms, squeeze dry and finely chop. Reserve the soaking liquid, discarding the last sandy tablespoon.

Heat the olive oil in a large, wide casserole over medium-high heat. Add the blitzed chestnut mushrooms and cook, stirring regularly, for 12–15 minutes until all the moisture has evaporated and they begin to brown. This step is essential — you're building flavour, not stewing.

Push the mushrooms to the side and add the onion, celery and carrot. Cook for 10 minutes until softened, then add the garlic and cook for 2 minutes. Stir everything together. Add the chopped porcini, blitzed walnuts and tomato purée. Cook for 3 minutes.

Pour in the red wine and let it reduce by half. Add the tinned tomatoes, the porcini soaking liquid, stock, thyme and bay leaf. Stir in the soy sauce or miso. Bring to a simmer, then reduce heat to low and cook, partially covered, for 35–40 minutes until rich and thickened.

Cook the rigatoni in well-salted boiling water until al dente. Reserve a large cup of pasta water. Drain and toss through the sauce, adding pasta water until it clings without being wet. Serve with a generous grating of Parmesan.

✦ Chef's note

The porcini soaking liquid is not optional — it contains most of the flavour. The soy sauce or miso serves the same function as Worcestershire sauce in a traditional Bolognese: pure umami depth. Don't leave either out.