Recipe
Pearl Barley Risotto with Roasted Squash & Crispy Sage
All the technique of a risotto, made with pearl barley instead of rice. The barley holds its texture better, takes on flavour generously, and makes the dish more substantial. Roasted butternut squash and crispy fried sage are the right companions for October.
Method
Heat the oven to 200°C / 180°C fan. Toss the squash chunks with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil and season generously with salt and pepper. Spread across one or two roasting trays in a single layer — crowding will steam rather than roast. Roast for 28–32 minutes, turning once halfway through, until golden and caramelised at the edges and completely tender throughout. Set aside — you'll stir about half into the barley later and keep the rest whole for topping.
Heat the remaining tablespoon of olive oil in a large wide saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and celery and cook, stirring occasionally, for 8–10 minutes until completely soft and translucent but not coloured. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute more. Add the pearl barley and stir to coat in the oil for 1–2 minutes until the grains look slightly glossy.
Pour in the white wine and stir until fully absorbed. Begin adding the warm stock: one large ladleful at a time, stirring every couple of minutes and waiting until each addition is absorbed before adding the next. Continue for about 30 minutes until the barley is tender with a slight chew remaining and the mixture is loose and lightly creamy. You may not need all the stock — stop when the consistency is right.
While the barley cooks, fry the sage leaves. Heat a thin layer of neutral oil in a small frying pan over medium-high heat until shimmering. Add the sage leaves in a single layer and fry for 20–30 seconds, turning once, until crisp and a shade darker. Remove immediately with a slotted spoon onto kitchen paper — they continue cooking briefly from residual heat. Season with a pinch of fine salt while still hot.
When the barley is ready, stir through roughly half the roasted squash — it will break down slightly into the grain, adding sweetness and colour. Remove the pan from the heat. Add the cold butter cubes and grated Parmesan and beat vigorously until the risotto is glossy and well-combined. Add a final splash of warm stock if it needs loosening. Taste and adjust seasoning.
Divide between warm bowls — this dish cools quickly, so warming the bowls matters. Arrange the remaining whole roasted squash pieces over the top. Scatter the crispy sage leaves generously over everything. Finish with a little more grated Parmesan and a good crack of black pepper. Serve immediately.
✦ Chef's note
Pearl barley risotto behaves very much like a standard risotto: it needs attention and gradual stock addition, but it's more forgiving than Arborio because the grain retains texture even if slightly overcooked. The key difference is timing — pearl barley takes about 30 minutes rather than 18–20, so start the barley before you roast the squash if working to a tight schedule, or roast the squash an hour ahead and keep it warm in a low oven. Crown prince pumpkin or kabocha work equally well in place of butternut. A handful of toasted walnuts or pumpkin seeds scattered over the top makes a good addition if you want more texture. Vegan version: substitute good olive oil for the butter and nutritional yeast for the Parmesan — it's a different dish but an excellent one.