Recipe
Charred Leek & Barley Salad with Soft Herbs & Lemon
Leeks halved and charred hard on a griddle until blackened at the edges and silky through the middle, served over warm pearl barley dressed with lemon and good oil, with a generous scatter of soft herbs over the top. An understated main course.
Method
Bring a large pan of generously salted water to the boil. Add the rinsed pearl barley and cook for 25–30 minutes until tender with a slight chew remaining. Drain thoroughly and transfer to a large bowl while still hot.
Make the dressing while the barley cooks: whisk together the lemon juice, extra virgin olive oil, Dijon mustard, grated garlic and a pinch of salt until well combined. It should be assertively lemony — this dressing needs to stand up against the smokiness of the charred leeks and the nuttiness of the barley.
Toss the warm, freshly drained barley with about two-thirds of the dressing immediately — warm grain absorbs dressing far more readily than cold grain. Season generously with salt and pepper. Taste and adjust. Spread across a large plate or shallow serving dish.
Heat a griddle pan over the highest heat possible for at least 3 minutes. Brush the cut (flat) side of the leek halves generously with olive oil and season with salt. Place cut-side down on the griddle and cook completely undisturbed for 5–6 minutes until deeply charred in lines — the outer layer should be blackened, not just marked. Turn the leeks and cook for a further 3–4 minutes on the rounded side. Test the centre with the tip of a knife — it should pass through with no resistance. If still firm, continue cooking.
Arrange the charred leeks over the dressed barley. Drizzle the remaining dressing over the leeks. Scatter the roughly chopped parsley, picked mint leaves, chopped toasted hazelnuts and lemon zest over the top.
Serve warm or at room temperature — this dish is equally good both ways and holds well on the table. Offer bread alongside for a more substantial meal.
✦ Chef's note
If you don't have a griddle pan, a heavy cast iron skillet works well — the char won't have lines, but the colour and flavour will be similar. Alternatively, whole leeks can be roasted at 220°C for 20–25 minutes until the outer layer is blackened and the centre is completely soft, then peeled back to serve. Pearl barley can be replaced with farro, spelt or cooked Puy lentils — all work well in this dressing. The charred leeks and dressed barley can be prepared a few hours ahead and kept separately at room temperature; add the herbs and nuts just before serving. A spoonful of tahini drizzled over the finished plate works well alongside the lemon dressing if you want to add richness.