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From the Kitchen

Why Lamb Makes Sense in April

Lamb has a seasonality that most other proteins don’t, and it’s one that’s worth paying attention to. The animal changes significantly over the course of the year — spring lamb, born in January and February and brought to market around Easter, is mild, sweet and relatively lean. By autumn the same animal has developed a stronger, more mineral flavour that suits bolder treatment. Neither is better. They’re just different things.

April is when the spring lamb arrives, and it’s worth treating the timing as an opportunity rather than a coincidence.

What changes in spring

Spring lamb is younger than what you’ll find later in the year, which means a few practical differences in the kitchen. The fat is distributed more delicately and renders at lower temperatures, so the meat doesn’t need as much heat or time to release it. The flavour is more delicate too — lamb-forward without the intensity that older animals develop. Preparations that work with that quality are ones where the meat is the centre of the plate rather than a vehicle for a lot of competing seasoning.

Shoulder is still the best cut for most purposes. It has more connective tissue than leg, which means it rewards the slow roast — the collagen converts over four or five hours into gelatin, the fat renders slowly into the tray beneath it, and the meat eventually gives up the bone entirely and falls into tender, yielding shreds. Leg is leaner and better suited to a shorter, hotter cook — but it’s less forgiving and the shoulder is more interesting for the effort.

What it wants alongside it

Spring lamb is particularly good with anything that has brightness and acidity. Pomegranate — both the seeds and the molasses — is a natural companion; the tartness plays directly against the richness of the fat. Mint, in larger quantities than the mint sauce tradition might suggest, is genuinely right here. Preserved lemon stirred through a sauce or scattered over the rested meat at the last moment. Labneh or thick yoghurt on the side, keeping things cool against the warmth of the meat.

The flavour profile is Middle Eastern and Eastern Mediterranean in character — not because those cuisines are fashionable but because they developed alongside the lamb in a way that Northern European cooking, which traditionally treated lamb with redcurrant jelly and roasted root vegetables, didn’t quite capture.

On the brief window

Spring lamb is available for about six to eight weeks, from around Easter through to early June. After that it becomes hogget — older, more developed — and then mutton by the following year. Hogget is excellent for slow cooking and worth seeking out when it appears in autumn. Mutton is exceptional if you can find a good source.

But there’s something specific to the spring window that doesn’t carry over. The combination of a mild animal and a light season — fresh herbs, spring onions, new peas — is one of those brief alignments in cooking that only happen a few weeks a year.

This is one of them.