Preheat the oven to 220°C (200°C fan). Bring a large pot of well-salted water to the boil. Carefully lower the whole cauliflower into the water, trimmed-base down. Blanch for 8 minutes — this pre-cooks the dense inner core so it becomes fully tender during roasting. Remove, drain, and allow to steam dry on a rack or board for 5 minutes.
Rub the cauliflower all over with olive oil, working it into any crevices between the florets. Season very generously with salt and pepper over the entire surface. Place upright in a roasting tin, supported if needed by pressing it gently to sit level.
Roast on the high shelf for 50–60 minutes, basting once or twice with the oil in the tin. The cauliflower is ready when it is very deeply caramelised and almost charred in places on the outside, and a metal skewer passes through the very centre — the stalk, the innermost core — with no resistance at all. If there is any firmness at the centre, it needs more time. The outside looking done is not enough.
While the cauliflower roasts, make the harissa yoghurt. Stir together the Greek yoghurt, harissa paste, lemon juice and a generous pinch of salt until combined. Taste — it should be noticeably spicy, tangy, and well-seasoned. The heat level of harissa varies significantly between brands; add more or less to suit. Set aside at room temperature.
Make the herb oil. Blanch the parsley leaves in boiling water for 30 seconds, drain, and refresh in cold water immediately. Squeeze thoroughly dry. Blend with the extra virgin olive oil and a pinch of salt until very smooth and bright green. Pass through a fine-mesh sieve for a polished result. Set aside.
To assemble: spoon the harissa yoghurt generously onto a large round plate or platter — spread it into a wide pool. Place the whole roasted cauliflower in the centre, upright. Drizzle the herb oil over and around the cauliflower. Scatter the toasted flaked almonds over the top. Bring to the table as a centrepiece with lemon wedges alongside, and carve into wedges at the table.
✦ Chef's note
This dish works as a vegetarian centrepiece that doesn't feel like a compromise — the deeply caramelised cauliflower has enough presence and visual drama to hold the table. The blanching step is the difference between a cauliflower that is fully tender at the centre and one that is well-browned outside but still firm inside; don't skip it. The herb oil and harissa yoghurt can both be made a day ahead. A drizzle of pomegranate molasses over the finished dish in place of the herb oil is excellent for a more Middle Eastern direction. The same roasting method works on romanesco or Hispi cabbage (whole, halved, roasted cut-side down until charred) with the same results and the same sauces.
Pat the duck legs completely dry. Score the skin in a cross-hatch pattern with the tip of a sharp knife — cuts about 1cm apart, taking care not to cut through to the meat. Season generously with salt and pepper on both sides.
Place the duck legs skin-side down in a cold, heavy-based casserole — do not preheat the pan. Set the heat to medium-low. Cook completely undisturbed for 20–25 minutes. The fat will render slowly, the skin will turn from pale to deep golden-brown, and the duck will become noticeably thinner as the subcutaneous fat melts. The fat running out should be clear, not milky. Carefully remove the duck legs to a plate. Pour off most of the fat into a heatproof container, leaving about 1 tbsp behind.
Increase the heat to medium. Add the diced onion to the pan with the reserved fat. Cook for 8 minutes until softened and beginning to colour. Add the garlic and grated ginger and cook for 2 minutes until fragrant.
Add the orange zest and juice, stock, soy sauce, honey, star anise, cinnamon stick, and bay leaves. Increase the heat and bring to the boil, stirring to combine.
Return the duck legs to the casserole skin-side up. The liquid should come roughly halfway up the legs. Reduce to a very gentle simmer, cover with a lid, and braise for 1.5–2 hours until the meat is very tender, pulling away from the bone when pressed, and the skin has softened and become lacquered.
Remove the duck legs carefully to a warm plate. Discard the star anise, cinnamon stick, and bay leaves. Increase the heat under the braising liquid to high and reduce by half — about 10 minutes — until glossy and slightly syrupy. Taste and adjust seasoning.
Optional but recommended: place the duck legs skin-side up under a hot grill for 4–5 minutes until the skin is burnished and caramelised. Watch carefully — the honey in the sauce makes the skin prone to burning quickly. Serve over steamed jasmine rice or mashed potato, with the reduced sauce spooned generously over, scattered with finely sliced spring onions.
✦ Chef's note
The rendered duck fat collected in step two is a precious byproduct — refrigerate it and use for roasting potatoes, which it transforms more dramatically than any other fat. Duck legs can be braised a day ahead up to the point of the final reduction, then refrigerated; on the day, skim the solidified fat from the surface, reheat the duck legs and sauce together, then grill if desired. A small amount of five-spice powder (¼ tsp) added with the aromatics deepens the flavour and makes it more distinctly Chinese in character — worth doing if you have it.
If possible, prepare the lamb the night before. Mix all the spice rub ingredients into a paste. Using a sharp knife, score the lamb shoulder all over — make cuts 2cm deep across the top, sides, and between the bones if accessible. Work the spice paste into every cut and over the entire surface of the meat. Cover and refrigerate overnight. Remove from the fridge 1 hour before roasting.
Preheat the oven to 160°C (140°C fan). Place the lamb shoulder fat-side up in a large, deep roasting tin. Add 200ml water to the base of the tin — this prevents the spice rub from burning during the long cook. Cover the tin very tightly with two layers of foil, crimping the edges firmly. Roast for 4 hours without opening.
While the lamb roasts, make the spiced chickpeas. Warm the olive oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the diced onion and a pinch of salt. Cook for 8 minutes until soft. Add the garlic and ground cumin and cook for 2 minutes until fragrant. Add the drained chickpeas and tinned tomatoes. Season generously with salt. Simmer for 20 minutes until the sauce has reduced slightly and the chickpeas are well-flavoured. Set aside.
After 4 hours, remove the foil from the lamb. Increase the oven temperature to 200°C (180°C fan). Return the lamb uncovered for 20–30 minutes until the surface is deeply caramelised and darkened at the edges. Test the lamb: press firmly on the thickest part — the meat should yield completely and you should be able to pull pieces away with your fingers. If there's any resistance, return to the oven covered for a further 30 minutes.
Remove the lamb from the oven. Reheat the chickpeas over medium heat, adding a small splash of water if needed. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Spoon the chickpeas onto a large serving platter or warm serving dish.
Using two large forks or tongs, pull the lamb meat from the bone in large pieces directly over the chickpeas — the meat should fall away with minimal effort. Tip any resting juices and the cooking liquid from the base of the roasting tin over the meat. Add generous spoonfuls of thick yoghurt. Scatter fresh coriander generously over the top. Serve immediately with warm flatbreads for scooping.
✦ Chef's note
This dish feeds a crowd without requiring any active cooking once the lamb is in the oven — making it ideal for entertaining. A simple cucumber and mint salad alongside cuts through the richness of the lamb and chickpeas. The spice rub can be adjusted: more chilli for heat, a pinch of ground ginger for warmth. Leftovers are excellent the next day — warm the lamb and chickpeas together in a pan with a splash of water and serve over rice, or stuff into flatbread with yoghurt and pickled chilli for an excellent lunch.
Preheat the oven to 160°C (140°C fan). Pat the beef pieces completely dry with kitchen paper — moisture is the primary barrier to browning. Season very generously with salt and pepper on all sides.
Heat 2 tbsp oil in a large flameproof casserole over high heat until smoking. Brown the beef in batches — do not crowd the pan; the pieces need space or they will steam rather than brown. Cook without moving for 2–3 minutes per side until deeply coloured all over. Transfer to a plate and continue with the remaining batches. This step takes patience but is the foundation of the stew's flavour.
Reduce the heat to medium. Add the remaining oil. Add the onions, carrots, and celery with a pinch of salt. Scrape up the dark bits stuck to the base of the pan — they're flavour. Cook for 8–10 minutes until the vegetables are softened. Add the garlic and cook for 2 minutes.
Pour in the stout. Increase the heat and let it bubble vigorously for 3 minutes to cook off the raw alcohol. Add the beef stock and tinned tomatoes. Return the browned beef to the casserole along with any resting juices. Add the bay leaves and thyme. Bring to a simmer.
Cover with a tight-fitting lid and transfer to the oven. Braise for 2.5–3 hours until the beef is completely tender — it should break apart when pressed with a spoon with no resistance. Check once or twice; if the liquid has reduced below the level of the meat, add a splash of water.
About 30 minutes before the stew is done, cook the mushrooms. Melt the butter in a large frying pan over high heat. Add the mushrooms in a single layer — work in batches if necessary. Cook completely undisturbed for 3–4 minutes until deeply browned on the underside. Season and add to the stew for the final 20 minutes of cooking.
Remove from the oven. Discard the bay leaves and thyme sprigs. Stir in the Worcestershire sauce. Taste and season generously — the stew will need more salt than you expect; the stout and long cooking require it. Serve in deep bowls over mashed potato or with crusty bread, scattered with roughly chopped parsley.
✦ Chef's note
This stew is substantially better the day after cooking — refrigerate overnight, skim the solidified fat from the surface, and reheat gently with a splash of water if needed. A small amount of good dark chocolate (15–20g) stirred in at the very end adds depth without any discernible chocolate flavour. Pearl onions or shallots added with the mushrooms in the final 30 minutes of cooking are a good addition if you want more texture and sweetness. The stew freezes extremely well — portion into containers, freeze flat, and use within 3 months. Reheat from frozen in a covered pan over very low heat, stirring occasionally.
Preheat the oven to 210°C (190°C fan). Toss the carrot and parsnip halves in 2 tbsp olive oil, season generously with salt and pepper, and spread in a single layer on one side of a large lipped baking tray. Toss the beetroot wedges separately in the remaining oil, season, and place on the other side of the tray or on a second tray — keep the beetroot from touching the pale roots.
Roast for 35–40 minutes, turning everything once halfway through, until the vegetables are deeply caramelised and coloured at the edges and completely tender when tested with the tip of a knife at the thickest point. The beetroot and carrots will take similar time; parsnips may need slightly less.
While the roots roast, cook the Puy lentils. Place them in a medium saucepan, cover well with cold water and add a pinch of salt. Bring to the boil, then reduce to a steady simmer and cook for 20–25 minutes until tender but with a distinct bite — Puy lentils should never be mushy. Drain well.
Make the dressing: whisk together the extra virgin olive oil, red wine vinegar, Dijon mustard, honey and a generous pinch of salt until well combined and slightly emulsified. Taste — it should be assertively vinegary and well-seasoned. Adjust if needed.
Immediately toss the warm, freshly drained lentils with two-thirds of the dressing and the finely grated garlic. Season well with salt and pepper. Leave for 5 minutes to absorb.
Spread the dressed lentils onto a large serving plate or board. Arrange the roasted roots over the top — keep the beetroot separate from the pale vegetables for visual contrast, or mix if you don't mind the colour bleed. Drizzle the remaining dressing over everything. Crumble the feta generously over the whole dish. Scatter the chopped parsley and dill fronds over the top.
Serve warm or at room temperature — this dish holds well and is equally good eaten at either temperature. It makes an excellent centrepiece for a vegetarian main course or a generous side alongside roast meat.
✦ Chef's note
Any combination of root vegetables works here — swede, celeriac, sweet potato, and turnip are all excellent. The key is cutting them to similar sizes so they cook at the same rate. Dill and parsley can be replaced with tarragon, chervil, or a simple scattering of chives. A handful of toasted pumpkin seeds or hazelnuts scattered over the top adds good crunch. The dish can be prepared ahead: roast the roots and cook the lentils up to a few hours in advance, keep separate, and assemble with fresh herbs and feta just before serving.
Preheat the oven to 160°C (140°C fan). Pat the pork shoulder completely dry on all surfaces with kitchen paper — this is essential for proper browning. Season very generously with salt and pepper, working it into any crevices or folds.
Heat the oil in a large flameproof casserole (with a lid) over medium-high heat. Add the pork and brown on all surfaces, beginning with the fat cap and turning to cover every side — this takes 8–10 minutes total. The colour should be a deep mahogany-brown, not pale gold. Remove to a plate and set aside.
Reduce to medium heat. In the same casserole, add the sliced onions and a pinch of salt. Cook for 8 minutes, stirring and scraping up any brown bits, until the onions are soft and beginning to colour. Add the garlic and cook for 2 minutes. Add the apple pieces and cook briefly for 2 minutes — they'll begin to soften at the edges.
Pour in the cider. Increase the heat to high and let it bubble for 3 minutes to cook off the raw alcohol. Add the stock, bay leaves and thyme. Stir briefly. Return the pork to the casserole fat-side up — the liquid should come roughly halfway up the meat. If it doesn't quite reach, add a little water.
Bring to a bare simmer on the hob. Cover with a tight-fitting lid and transfer to the oven. Braise for 3–3.5 hours until the meat is completely tender — it should yield with no resistance when poked firmly with a finger, and strands should pull away cleanly from the main joint. Check once or twice during cooking; if the liquid has reduced below the halfway mark, add a splash of water.
Remove the pork to a board, cover loosely with foil, and rest for 15 minutes. Discard the bay leaves and thyme sprigs from the sauce. Skim as much excess fat as possible from the surface. Place the casserole over medium-high heat and reduce the sauce for 5–8 minutes until slightly thickened and glossy. Stir in the whole-grain mustard and crème fraîche if using. Taste and season generously — the sauce should be rich, slightly sweet, and slightly sharp from the mustard.
Either pull the pork into large chunks and return to the sauce, or carve into thick slices and serve with sauce spooned generously over. Serve with mashed potato and braised or steamed greens — savoy cabbage, kale, or sprouting broccoli all work well.
✦ Chef's note
This dish is at its best the day after cooking: refrigerate overnight in the braising liquid, skim the solidified fat from the surface, and reheat gently. The sauce becomes richer and more integrated after a night in the fridge. The apples will have dissolved almost completely into the sauce — if you want a more pronounced apple presence, add fresh sliced apple to the sauce when reheating and cook briefly until just tender. Bone-in shoulder or a pork leg joint both work in this recipe; adjust timing for larger cuts. A small amount of sage added to the aromatics in step three is excellent if you have it.
Pat the chicken thighs completely dry with kitchen paper on both sides — moisture is the enemy of browning. Season generously with salt and pepper on all surfaces. Heat the oil in a wide, heavy-based casserole or deep frying pan over medium-high heat until shimmering.
Place the chicken thighs skin-side down in the hot pan. Do not move them. If they curl, press gently with a spatula to maintain contact with the pan. Cook for 6–8 minutes until the skin is a deep mahogany brown — far darker than golden. Turn and cook for 3 minutes on the flesh side. Remove to a plate and set aside.
Reduce the heat to medium. Pour off all but about 1 tbsp of the rendered fat from the pan — leave the brown bits on the base. Add the diced onion and a pinch of salt. Cook, stirring and scraping the base, for 6–8 minutes until the onion is soft and any stuck bits have released. Add the garlic and cook for 2 minutes until fragrant.
Pour in the white wine. Increase the heat to high and let it bubble vigorously for 3 minutes, continuing to scrape the base of the pan. The liquid should reduce by roughly half and the sharp alcohol smell should cook off.
Add the chicken stock, bay leaves, thyme sprigs, and half the tarragon (stems and all). Return the browned chicken to the pan, skin-side up — the skin should sit above the liquid level to stay crisp rather than going soft. If the liquid isn't coming at least halfway up the thighs, add a little more stock or water.
Reduce to a gentle, steady simmer. Partially cover with a lid and cook for 35–40 minutes until the chicken is cooked through and beginning to pull away from the bone when lifted with tongs. The skin won't be crisp anymore — that's correct for a braise.
Remove the chicken to a plate. Discard the bay leaves, thyme sprigs and cooked tarragon from the sauce. Increase the heat and bubble the sauce for 5 minutes to reduce and concentrate slightly. Stir in the crème fraîche and Dijon mustard. Pick the leaves from the remaining tarragon sprigs and stir through. Taste and season generously. Return the chicken to the pan, skin-side up.
Serve directly from the pan at the table with mashed potato, buttered egg noodles, or plenty of crusty bread. The sauce is the point — make sure there's enough bread or potato to account for it.
✦ Chef's note
This dish improves significantly overnight — the sauce deepens and the chicken absorbs more flavour. If making ahead, reheat gently with a splash of stock or water to loosen the sauce and stir through the fresh tarragon at the last minute. Bone-in thighs are strongly preferred over boneless — the bone contributes flavour to the sauce during the long braise. If making with boneless thighs, reduce the braising time to 20–25 minutes and check for doneness earlier. A few sliced mushrooms added with the onion make an excellent addition, particularly chestnut mushrooms — they contribute earthiness that works very well with the tarragon and wine.
Warm the olive oil in a large heavy-based pot over medium heat. Add the finely diced onion with a pinch of salt and cook, stirring occasionally, for 8–10 minutes until completely soft and beginning to turn golden. Add the sliced garlic and cook for a further 2 minutes.
Add the cumin, coriander, turmeric and chilli flakes to the onion. Stir well and cook for 1 minute until the spices are fragrant and the kitchen smells warm. Don't skip this step — toasting the spices briefly in the oil before adding liquid deepens the flavour significantly.
Add the butternut squash chunks and stir to coat thoroughly in the spiced oil. Cook for 3 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the edges begin to soften slightly.
Add the rinsed red lentils and pour in the vegetable stock. Season generously with salt. Bring to the boil over high heat, then reduce to a steady, medium simmer. Cook for 25–30 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the squash is completely tender and the lentils have dissolved into the liquid creating a thick base.
Remove from heat. Use a stick blender directly in the pot to blend to your preferred consistency — fully smooth gives a silky, restaurant-style soup; half-blended (using the blender for only 30 seconds) leaves texture and chunks. If using a jug blender, blend in batches and be careful with the hot liquid.
Return to low heat if needed to warm through. Season with salt, black pepper, and the full amount of lemon juice. Taste — the lemon should lift the whole soup and make it noticeably brighter. Add more if needed. If the soup has thickened too much, add a splash of water or stock to loosen. Taste once more and adjust.
Ladle into bowls. Drizzle generously with good olive oil or chilli oil — don't be shy, this is the flavour finish and textural contrast. Add fresh coriander leaves if using. Serve immediately with warm bread.
✦ Chef's note
A swirl of tahini over the finished soup alongside the olive oil is excellent — it adds richness and a slightly nutty note that works very well with the squash. For a more substantial meal, top with a spoonful of thick Greek yoghurt and a handful of toasted pumpkin seeds. The soup freezes well and is one of those dishes that improves after a day in the fridge as the flavours mellow and integrate. Sweet potato works in place of butternut squash with very similar results, and tends to be slightly less work to prepare.
Preheat the oven to 220°C (200°C fan). Halve the aubergines lengthways through the stalk. Score the cut flesh in a deep cross-hatch pattern — cuts about 1.5cm apart, going down almost to the skin but not breaking through it. This scoring allows the heat to penetrate and the glaze to soak in during the final stage.
Brush the scored cut sides generously with neutral oil — work it into the score marks. Season with flaky salt. Place the aubergines cut-side down on a lipped baking tray. Roast on the highest shelf for 25 minutes. The cut side will colour and caramelise against the tray; the inside begins to steam and collapse.
While the aubergines roast, make the miso glaze. Whisk together the white miso, mirin, soy sauce, sesame oil, rice vinegar and sugar until completely smooth. Taste: it should be deeply savoury, salty, and slightly sweet. Set aside.
After 25 minutes, remove the tray from the oven. Flip the aubergines cut-side up — they should be deeply coloured on the underside. Spoon the miso glaze generously over the cut surfaces, working it into the score marks so it pools and penetrates. Return to the oven for 10–15 minutes more until the glaze is bubbling and starting to caramelise at the edges and the aubergine flesh yields completely to gentle pressure with a finger.
While the aubergines finish, cook the rice if not already done. Toast the sesame seeds in a dry pan over medium heat for 2 minutes, shaking constantly, until golden and fragrant.
Divide the rice between bowls. Place an aubergine half over the rice. Scatter spring onions, toasted sesame seeds, and fresh coriander or shiso leaves over the top. Finish with a small drizzle of sesame oil if you like. Serve immediately — the caramelised glaze is at its best within a few minutes of coming out of the oven.
✦ Chef's note
White miso is milder and sweeter than red miso — either works in this recipe, but red miso will give a more intense, slightly more bitter result. If you can find it, red miso diluted with a teaspoon more mirin is excellent on larger, more robust aubergines. Leftovers are good at room temperature and work well sliced and added to grain salads, or served alongside cold noodles. The miso glaze is also very good on whole roasted sweet potatoes (score, roast at 200°C for 45–50 minutes until completely soft, then glaze and return for 10 minutes) and on thick slices of roasted cauliflower.
Bring a large pan of well-salted water to the boil. Add the farro and cook for 25–30 minutes until tender but with a distinct chewy bite remaining — farro should never be soft. Drain well and spread on a tray or leave in the colander to steam dry briefly.
While the farro cooks, prepare the tomatoes. Cut larger tomatoes into rough chunks, halve cherry tomatoes. Place everything in a wide bowl and season generously with salt. Leave for 10 minutes — the salt draws out the tomato juices, which will become the most flavourful part of the dressing.
Make the dressing. Whisk together the olive oil, red wine vinegar, sugar and a pinch of salt until combined. Taste: it should taste aggressively sharp and vinegary — this intensity is correct and necessary because it will be diluted by the starchy farro and the tomato juices. Add the capers and very finely sliced red onion.
Toss the warm, freshly drained farro with half the dressing immediately — warm farro absorbs dressing far more effectively than cold. Leave for 5 minutes to absorb.
Add the salted tomatoes along with all their accumulated juices to the dressed farro. Pour the remaining dressing over. Fold together gently — the goal is for some tomatoes to hold their shape while others break down slightly into the dressing. Season well with salt and pepper and taste.
Tear the basil and fold through gently at the last moment. Transfer to a serving dish. Add torn mozzarella or burrata if using. Eat within an hour — the salad is at its best when the farro is still slightly warm and the tomatoes haven't sat in the dressing long enough to lose their texture.
✦ Chef's note
Farro can be replaced with semi-pearled spelt or barley with similar results. If you have really excellent tomatoes, try a version with no farro at all — just the tomatoes, dressing, capers, onion and basil, which is essentially a panzanella without the bread, and let the tomatoes be entirely the point. Anchovy added to the dressing (1–2 fillets, mashed into the oil before whisking) transforms the flavour profile towards something more complex and less clearly vegetarian — worth doing if you're not cooking for vegetarians.